Second-year culinary arts student Emma Denton, removing pinbones from trout — with a smile!
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Sure you can be a prima donna chef,
but in the real world that could get you the boot
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NOV 26 12 – 2:30 PM — I’ve dropped by my share of culinary competitions over the years, when invariably I’m amazed by the creativity of students and professional chefs handed a few basic must-use ingredients and told to create something pretty — and tasty. But no contest has been as impressive, to me at any rate, as one I visited Saturday at Algonquin College where students were given a lesson in reality that wipes away any notion that chefs are bigger than life.
In fact, the bellicose Gordon Ramsays of the world are mercifully few and far between and, in reality, most with that temperament do not survive.
Why? Because culinary skills rely on team work as much as any other craft or discipline, and the egocentric chef who doesn’t work well with others will eventually be hoisted with his (or her) own petard. Chefs who remember it’s all about teamwork will thrive, while those who are confused about their role will not.
Which is a fundamental point the second annual Battle of the Knives — Sharpen Your Senses competition was about, where this year nine teams, each composed of two culinary arts and one hotel-restaurant management Algonquin student, had to work together to prepare a theme three-course menu with specified key ingredients within strict time limits. And the server hotel-restaurant student had to decorate the tables to embellish the theme.
Above, second-year student Jay Tapp, as Algonquin TV students focus on doing their thing.
The contest was conceived by chef/instructor Mario Ramsay with chef/instructor Cynthia Toffenallo, and Enrico DeFrancesco of the hotel-restaurant faculty.
While it’s not unusual to see contestants challenged to use selected ingredients in competition plates, the added dimension in this contest was being told who will be working together the morning of the event itself. After teams were picked at random, members had to agree on a theme, then the cooks had to consider each recipe/dish they created in advance to decide which was the best, or which elements of each they should use to present their final course(s).
In short, they were compelled to work well together — or fail.
First-place winners Brenda Kubanowski, Patricia Grey and Nathalie St-Onge. Top photo, their appetizer of vegetarian terrine with creamy leek sauce and savoury herb biscuits. Middle, main course baked trout roulade with orange beurre blanc, crispy rice cake and vegetable bundle. Not shown, dessert of sautéed pear folded in brown butter crêpe with cinnamon ginger honey sauce.
Above, second-place (silver) team (and People’s Choice favourite) by Jain Kalpesh, Amy Brown and Mankirat Singh Bhullar. Top, trio of mousse with garlic cream sauce and paprika oil; middle, blackened trout with dill beurre blanc red pepper coulis, cumin seed, red rice and green beans; bottom, vanilla cake, red wine-poached pear, chocolate mousse, frozen raspberries, molasses and whipped cream.
Third-place bronze winner, from top: Carrot quenelles, Cajun trout brew, poached pear, by Jeremy Tapp, Alana Awad, Duo Song. Winning table decoration, by the way, was by Ashley Deschamps who covered her table with bright pink fabric, then shrouded the chairs in white with matching pink ribbons and bows, and a floral centrepiece to complete the look.
This time students were told to prepare one cold vegetarian appetizer, a main course using trout, and a dessert with pears.
“The competition is like a black box, but in this case the mystery is not the ingredients as much as it is the partner you’ll be working with,” Ramsay says. “You really don’t know who you’ll be working with until the morning of the competition.
“The hospitality industry is all about working together as a team. In this case, we’re putting together people who may not know each other, then we’re giving them a deadline to create six portions of all three courses. And that’s exactly what the industry wants — not only knowing that a chef can cook, but that the chef can work well with others and make it all happen,” Ramsay says.
Above, top L-R, tasting judges and chefs Cory Haskins, Matthew Carmichael. Bottom, a typical table setting with cocktails by team Eric Valente, Dipesh Parmar, Hadeel Mahmoud.
Chef/instructor Kyle MacNeil says the idea is to blend ideas for the best chance of winning. “And then they have to co-ordinate with a third team member from the hotel-restaurant management side, who is the server.
“Last year we had strong candidates, but they didn’t all work well together and suffered as a result. Teamwork is essential in this business, otherwise you get chaos, uncertainty and a lack of focus on the plate.”
Sadly, I didn’t get to taste any of the dishes, but I thought this one was elegant yet simply presented: Court bouillon style trout with vegetables, crispy shallots and chive dumpling with white wine lemon butter by team Filippo Principato, Julian Grant and Clara Kingston.
Leek and herb spinach mousse with herb tuile by Eliotta Daoud, Ryan Zariski and Ashley Deschamps.
“So,” adds Toffanello, “it all comes together as a package — the food, the service, wine pairing. And they have to prepare matching cocktails. So it means in some cases they have to put aside their egos and come together to win.”
“We’re always looking for that fusion between front and back of the house,” DeFrancesco says. “They have to learn that dining is an overall experience, the marriage of great food, service and great ambiance. Together, that makes a memorable experience.”
Which is exactly the point: At the end of the day, it’s all about the customer.
By team Emma Denton, Andrew Chenard and Kathleen McNamara, red pepper leek roulade appetizer with red wine reduction and tarragon oil.
Spinach mousse in leek towers with herbed vinaigrette and crispy garnish by team Filippo Principato, Julian Grant and Clara Kingston. (Looks a bit to me like the Canadian Vimy Ridge Memorial.)
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